Singapore, a multi-faceted gem of a country. Where it may be small in size, it's makes up in stature. Its not an easy task to describe in a nutshell. It is vastly contrasting and varied from one side of the pendulum to the other. Entwined in a carefully woven tapestry of different cultures and religions. I have travelled to Singapore a few times and each visit has dealt me a new hand with each experience.
Every visit has held for me a different purpose, from visa runs, to visiting friends, a work summit, to a wedding. On each occasion, it has given me an unforgettable memory, leaving a marked impression; some great, some satisfactory, and one that I wish I could turn back in time and erase altogether. But with the great, the good, the not so good, and the ugly, there is so much, yet no one thing stands out on its own.
My first impression was the location of the embassy, Orchard Road, a shopper’s paradise. It was a quick visa-run visit for me and I saw little else. Yet there was a lot packed into that one street. It has a bustling CBD vibe, from major department stores to cafes and specialty stores, markets, restaurants, and convenience stores, and not without the fast food giants McDonald’s and KFC. If you were to see the majority of Singapore in one glance this would be it.
The second was a visit to a long-time friend, whose apartment was big and spacious, a very rare find. Tiled throughout with a rug in the main room. Beds are generally mattresses on raised platforms. One interesting observation over time, is the floor space and layout of local homes, regardless of size, are primarily rectangular. As most accommodation are apartment blocks, a common practice for laundry is where clean washing is placed on poles suspended out the windows. Every landing has pot plants that residents take turns to care for. The elevator for each block are clearly numbered as are each block of apartments. The apartment blocks can be quite a maze to decipher.
The third visit was a work-related summit near the shoreline/beach. Beaches in Singapore are stony with black sand and no surf, so its more of a shoreline than beach. There are wooden walkways along the foreshore which make a nice stroll. The view across the sea to the neighbouring islands is a delight. It is a great spot for taking photos. You can book retreat/function centres nearby and make the most of the surroundings.
The fourth, another visa-run with 4 young children in tow, on my own, was a sponsored, all expenses paid affair, where everything was arranged ahead for me, and taken care of by an entrusted person whose name will remain anonymous. I arrived at Singapore immigration with a mere SGD $2 and the local contact details in hand. I had just endured the worse budget airline flight in my life. I was on a prayer that our acquaintance, a so-called friend, was on the other side waiting to meet me as promised. We arrived after dark at what could barely be described as our hotel. The abode ‘was the only place available’. All the usual hotels were booked out due to a week long public holiday was the excuse. I had no choice but to accept at the time. It would be rated as a 2 star. The shops nearby were closed, bar a fried rice takeaway and a small convenience store. My food allowance was SGD $15 a day for the 5 of us. What could be worse, is we found we shared the room with a mouse for a whole week. We were also stuck in the room as everywhere was closed and there was no where to go. Later, it was to be discovered I had been scammed. We had been taken to a slum area I never knew existed. What was meant to be a pleasant stay was a nightmare. I’m not one to be picky or complain. I can ‘rough it’ on a bamboo floor in the jungle anytime and enjoy the pleasant surroundings of nature, even the occasional scorpion scurrying about. But the experience that public holiday week, was indescribably horrible. On the last day, the holidays were over, and I was able to take the children to the zoo. This was the highlight of the trip. It made it worthwhile in the end, and yes, we got our visas. This experience has forever been etched in my memory, one I will always learn from.
My fifth visit, an emergency visa-run, I literally had to jump on the first plane out from Thailand. I stayed in a 5-star hotel, in compensation for the horror of a visit previously. Despite the nice room, I was somewhat nervous as I was alone this trip, and dared not venture out beyond the hotel except for what was absolute necessity. Due to the expense of the room, I had to be frugal with my meals in the lobby restaurant, choosing only the cheapest on the menu. I achieved my purpose for my short visit and it was not bad.
My most recent trip was a 9 day visit for our son’s wedding. This time around I was determined to get the best out of my visit. I am glad to say I was not disappointed. My husband and I stayed with a lovely family, friends of our daughter. We quickly became good friends and their hospitality was warm and inviting. We felt very much at home.
During the course of our stay, I was able to observe (and practice) some of the daily habits of most Singaporeans. There are many beautiful parks where both flora and fauna are preserved. Walking along the wooden walkways through rich lush greenery that was home to many species of birds and small wildlife was lifting to the spirit. Exercise, good health and well-being is greatly encouraged in Singapore. Having previously done a 50km walk for a M.S. fund-raiser the month before, the walks were most enjoyable. On one of my morning walks together with our host, the heavens opened in a downpour of rain, and we ran to find shelter in a pagoda. There were several of these shelters throughout the park. As we waited out the rain with a few fellow walkers, it did not last long. It rained heavy, but short, and we were soon able to return to the apartment.
The streets are pristine and public transport is a well thought out system. Cars are expensive to own, so the majority of citizens make use of public transport. There are bus stops right outside each of the apartment complexes. These buses go to a central metro terminal that connects to trains and other buses as well as taxis. They are a hub for transport, which include a major shopping mall, food courts and markets. These metro terminals are scattered throughout Singapore and are located in the centre of each suburb, so it is within 10 mins from the first bus stop outside the apartment complex. Although public transport is easily accessible with a pre-paid ‘tap on tap off’ transport card and is reasonably cheap, it does take a lot longer to get around. It can take over an hour to get from one side of Singapore to the other, and Singapore is not large. But the convenience is worth it. However, for the locals, it is interesting to find that even though the convenience is there at the closest metro hub, many choose to go to other parts of Singapore for a meal out. ‘Don’t go nearby, the food is better elsewhere’.
There are many different choices of cuisine in Singapore. It is known for its variety of food. Yet, making the right choice when it comes to giving your order, is not as easy as it seems. You point to a picture of what you think you would like, only to be disappointed because it is too sweet or the flavour wasn’t what you expected. Apparently, Singaporeans, as health-conscious as they are, like sugar in their food, even savoury foods such as noodles, eggs, and fried rice. I guess the more you practice with your orders, you will certainly find what suits your taste. Try and try again, there is plenty to choose from. Going out for a coffee is not so much of a culture in Singapore. Most drink coffee at home and take their own water bottles with them when outside. Rarely do you find local people buying bottled water. Not to fear, it is available should you need it.
There’s a lot to see and do in Singapore. It is the ‘foodie’s heaven’. There are study halls and libraries galore. The tourist attractions are a must too. The theme is mostly gardens throughout. The Singing Trees at the Gardens by the Bay should definitely be on your bucket list. The history of Singapore is also an fascinating one, well worth looking into. Another incredible attraction is Changi Airport itself. It is a centre for international travel with layovers of up to 10 hours, so Changi caters for the travellers with a ‘free movie’ theatre, nap rooms, and 24hr food chains and cafes etc. There’s countless high-brand shops throughout the terminals. There’s Starbucks as well, if you are willing to wait in a long queue. Weary transit passengers can be seen strewn across the many rows of seats. In one terminal known as Jewel, it has feature gardens, one has a water vortex, a spectacular sight. The other is a butterfly garden. Aside from the private airline lounges, Changi also provides open lounges with free charging stations for your phone and other devices. I have tried and tested several airlines in my travels and Singapore’s Scoot Air has my best rating for a budget one thus far.
All in all, Singapore offers a lot in a small package, though it can be expensive if a newcomer. Should you follow the way of the locals, the Garden Country does not disappoint. You get something new out of every experience. Thank you to new extended family and friends I certainly will come again.
Rebecca Laklem. Copyright 2022.